PLEATS & HEMS

disha goyal
May 22, 2021
3 min read

WHAT ARE PLEATS?

The little folds or doublings that are present on our skirts, sleeves or the saree is known as pleats. Pleats are a type of fold in fabric that can take on many different looks. A basic pleat is when the fabric is folded back on itself, thereby creating an accordion-like appearance. However, pleats come in many shapes and sizes.

Pleats help in adding silhouette to a garment. Some of the most common types of pleat include:

BOX PLEATS

Box pleats are popular for skirts adding shape to the waistline. A box pleat is achieved by folding two lengths of fabric away from each other in opposite directions, meeting them in the middle of the backside of the fold. A standard men’s shirt has a single box pleat at the back, in the center of the neckline.

KNIFE PLEATS

These are tight pleats. The fabric in these pleats is evenly folded all facing in the same direction. When it comes to apparel they are popular in terms of skirts as they give the waistline a fuller silhouette. They help in freedom of movement.

INVERTED BOX PLEATS

An inverted box pleat is the back of a box pleats. Here the fabric is folded out and is sewn only on the top. Many skirts, dresses and trousers use these pleats.

KICK PLEATS

Kick pleats are also ideal for A-line skirts as they allow some movement and flexibility in the narrow shape. They are inverted pleats, usually at the back, that lend a little fullness to the garment.

These are some of the pleats that I tried(box pleats, inverted box pleats and knife pleats). There are so many more which I intend to come back to soon.

WHAT IS A HEM?

Nearly all garments have a hem that acts like a border . It is basically a finishing that is added to the garment by sewing the edges. A very short piece of fabric is folded to sew a hem.

The lines that measure the lower edge of a garment are known as hemlines. They are of a variable nature and can change according to the style or fabric of your piece of cloth or clothing. Hems can be hand sewn or done by the machine.

Some of the most common types of hems include:

DOUBLE FOLD HEM

This is one of the most commonly used hems in the majority of sewing patterns. It is easy to do and gives a nice professional finish on most items. A double folded hem is best for straight hems as curved hems tend to wrinkle and pucker.

NARROW ROLLED HEM

A narrow rolled hem is typically used for lightweight fabrics, particularly on blouses. It is also great for hemming curved edges such as those found on circular skirts. Although the method is very similar to the double folded hem, the hem is much narrower.

BIAS TAPE HEM

Using bias tape for a hem is great for thick fabrics where creating a rolled hem or double hem would be too bulky. This photo shows the wrong side of the hem. On the right side, you just see a single line of stitches.

BLIND HEM

A blind hem is invisible (or almost invisible) from the right side of the fabric. You often see it on the bottom of slacks or skirts and it is normally used for wider straight hems.

ZIG ZAG OR OVER LOCKED HEM

A popular way how to sew a hem is using a combination of your serge and regular machine. You will see these type of hems in many store-bought clothing items. A zig-zag or overlocked hem is great for most fabrics and particularly bulky or hard to press fabrics. It is also great for sewing curved edges.